
I kid you not, this is our first view of

I kid you not, this is our first view of
these that we anchored on the night prior to entering the canal. The canal itself is about 40-feet deep and relatively narrow, but wide enough for us to have plenty of room when passing a ship going in the opposite direction. This cute restaurant by a small marina was about the only place to stop within the canal. En route, the forest-and-cottage scenery gave way to more open marshlands as we neared the eastern end, Delaware Bay. After all the beautiful sites we’ve had recently, Delaware Bay was a bit of a shock, but I’ll deal with that in the next blog.
After coming through
After leaving 
Going through the ICW from Beaufort, North Carolina to Norfolk, Virginia, is day tripping; I would not want to be travelling through some of these passages at night. We had no problem finding nice anchorages along the way. We stopped the first night in Pungo Creek, near Belhaven. We were racing a thunderstorm to get in (we lost), but the rest of the night it was calm and protected, and the sunrise was beautiful, as you can see in the picture above. The second day we travelled up the Alligator River and canal (unnerving when there are branches and/or logs in the middle of the channel) and across Albemarle Sound, anchoring in the first inlet. Good holding and pretty, with nice houses and trees all around, but talk about an obstacle course to get in! Having blue- and stone-crabbed for years as part of her job, Anne is partial to crabbing. But the sheer density of traps seems unfair to any crab living nearby. On day three we reached Great Bridge, Virginia, and stayed on the town’s free dock. Since we’re on a budget, free is great! It also was useful because provisioning, banks, a library, and other services were only a few blocks away. The first night we (the crews of Mr Mac, Freedom, and Blue Blaze) went to a nearby Mexican restaurant, El Toro Loco, and had a terrific meal. The next day Anne, Roberta, and Laura hunted down a birding trail to hike on while the guys worked on boat projects, and we all did potluck on Freedom for dinner. Our final day took us through the Great Bridge Lock (see picture)—our first, and pretty uneventful, since the water level only changes a couple of inches—and up to through Norfolk, Virginia.We had originally planned to go north from Beaufort on the outside, around the Outer Banks, and head straight up to
Anyway, the weather gods ultimately decided that we really needed to see the ICW through North Carolina and Virginia, and they never produced a weather forecast conducive to traveling north on the outside. Our friends on Freedom and Blue Blaze were headed up the ICW, so we tagged along. The water depths along this section were pretty good, and there weren’t too many bridges to deal with. We had a good time, and got to sleep every night. The scenery was great, and included:
bucolic middle of nowhere,
lightly residential,
and highly industrialized.


While waiting for a good weather forecast to continue, we spent nearly a week in Beaufort. What a great place to wait! Since the
Taylor Creek runs along the Beaufort waterfront, and on the chart it looks small and narrow. In reality, it’s plenty broad for boats to anchor and swing, deep right up to the shore, and quite long, so you can anchor either right across from town or farther away where it’s quieter and more residential. We chose the latter. On the opposite side of the creek from Beaufort is the Rachel Carson Reserve (also known as Carrot Island), which is composed of several small islands with beaches, marshes, tidal flats, and forest. Wild ponies live there, and from Mr Mac we saw them feeding along the banks and running d
own the beach – very cool! Anne also satisfied her crustacean withdrawal by watching the hundreds of fiddler crabs that were feeding and waving their claws amongst the marsh grasses on the shore. You can pick them out in the picture below by the white color of their large claw (Crab trivia: only male fiddler crabs have the large claw, so you really don’t see all the females running around with their two small claws).

Before we moved Mr Mac from the
Beaufort, North Carolina is a terrific stop when you’re coming in from offshore. The jetty is broad and well-marked, and there are anchorages within easy reach for the weary. As I noted in my previous blog, we first anchored away from town, to the northwest of the inlet, inside of Bogue Banks, a barrier island. The shoreline directly along the anchorage is part of Fort Macon State Park. On the inside of the island (as opposed to the outside facing the Atlantic Ocean) is a small creek that you can enter at high tide, which winds through the salt marshes. It’s quite pretty; we saw herons, egrets, and ibis foraging through the mud and marsh grass, and swallows flying erratically (as they do) above.
We also dinghyed in to visit Fort Macon. It’s relatively small—several Fort Macons would fit inside the parade grounds of Fort Jefferson in the Dry Tortugas—but wonderfully restored. It overlooks and was built to defend Beaufort Inlet. A nice sandy beach surrounds the fort on three sides, extending from inside the island to the outside, and many people were fishing in the surf.
So we enter the Beaufort Inlet at 7:30 PM after four days and three nights offshore, and anchor just inside beyond the Coast Guard station. It’s deep and quiet, and we’re the only ones there. Ahhh, a chance to relax…
6:00 AM: the boat starts rocking all over the place, as bad as it ever got offshore in a thunderstorm. Is it another force of nature? No, it’s the Big Rock Blue Marlin Tournament! We only found this out later, but what we saw that morning was a veritable parade of big sport fishing boats flying full speed down the channel and out of the inlet, pushing HUGE wakes into shore were we lay gently sleeping (but not for long). Talk about a rude aWAKEning (I know, that was really bad, but I couldn’t resist). The purse for the largest blue marlin was more than $1 million, so I can see why they were so enthusiastic.
For those of you not familiar with oceanography, the the Florida Straits between Florida and Cuba, then north along the southeastern United States coast before turning east and heading out across the Atlantic Ocean. The water is very warm, so the current is quite visible by satellite, as you can see with the link above. (Note: The influence of the warm Gulf Stream waters is the reason that palm trees can grow in some areas of the British Isles, as is seen in this picture from southwest
What does this mean in practical terms? It meant that we actually saw 10 knots speed while we travelled north in the
From Key Biscayne we sailed up to
The
A beautiful sail up the last segment of Hawk Channel to Key Biscayne. According to the cruising guides, there are two well-protected anchorages at Key Biscayne that cruisers use when waiting for a good weather window to head for the
But the populations of some less-loved invertebrates also increase with rainfall, and we’ve been plagued by mosquitoes for several days. Unlike our first couple of weeks out, winds have been relatively low this past week as we travelled up the Keys. Combine these two factors and you get lots of bugs coming in the hatches at night. We overnighted about ½ mile off of the beach just north of Ceasar Creek at Elliot Key, with little to no breeze. There were storm clouds all around, which provided for a beautiful sunset, as you can see in the panoramic picture above. When we came up from below after dark to look at the sky, we heard an odd buzzing, kind of like electronics, in the cockpit, but not outside of it. Ahhhh! Mosquitoes!! We don’t know how many it takes to make that loud a sound, but they were everywhere. We closed up the boat and only left open hatches and ports with screens. The next morning, an early squall was coming through, so we had to go up on deck and leave the hatch open, which allowed them free access to the cabin. Consequently, all day we were being attacked by mosquitoes—in the cockpit, in the salon, in the aft cabin, everywhere! So we went on a killing rampage, arming ourselves with small towels for swatting the suckers. Every time you went below, you killed four or five. The boat was littered with their vile little corpses, and I’m sure we were each down a pint or two of blood.
After
We spent two nights at Rodriguez Key, near
Several friends recommended
ut your cruising guides, the bridge to