Wednesday, April 19, 2017

Videos of our Panama Canal Transit

It’s an eerie feeling the first time the lock chamber doors close.

The turbulence created by the inflowing water was incredible. If you fell in, you’d be a goner.

Small but sturdy locomotives are used to maneuver ships through the locks.

The most time-consuming part of the activity in each chamber is getting all the boats/ship in and tied up. The actual filling and emptying of the chambers is relatively quick.

Sunday, April 16, 2017

Transiting The Panama Canal Is Stressless (When You’re Not On Your Own Boat!): Part 2

Sunrise over Lake Gatun

These tugs really push some water!
We already knew that the Panama canal operates 24 hours a day. We really understood it when, during the night, the boat was rocked by wakes from the great big tugs plowing by. After a restless night, Chris and I were up well before dawn, sitting outside listening to jungle sounds and looking around. Nearby was a well-lit, artificial wall that seemed out of place. However, we identified it later when an enormous container carrier, escorted by several hefty tugs, exited – this was the lake end of the new locks. The original lock chambers can accommodate ships with dimensions less than 110 ft (33.53 m) wide, 1,050 ft (320.04 m) long, and 41.2 ft (12.56 m) deep. These new lock chambers – 180 ft (54.86 m) wide, 1,400 ft (426.72 m) long, and 60 ft (18.29 m) deep – can handle more (but not all) of the megaships now being built, and just opened in June 2016. There were lots of birds to observe about the anchorage, as well as a couple of manatees and a crocodile. Advisor # 2, Franklin, directed us along the channel through the lake. It was odd to think that the little islands had been hilltops before the canal, and that villages had existed on land that was now far beneath the water. In the David McCullough book, he talks about the Culebra Cut and other areas that persistently fill in, and we saw evidence of that in the huge dredgers working canalside. Two sets of locks at the southern end of the canal lowered us back down to sea level. Again, we tied to larger vessels, this time sight-seeing boats that take tourists through the canal. There’s a visitor’s center at the Miraflores locks, so we kind of felt like we were under a microscope as we passed through…to the Pacific! Find more info on the canal here. Next time I'll tell you about a couple of the major obstacles that faced the builders of the canal.

Crocodile swimming past the defunct yacht club where we anchored for the night
A megaship exiting the new, larger locks into Lake Gatun
An adorable little island that used to be a hilltop

All day it was a parade of huge ships passing by

Tour boats ply the canal waters, giving people an up-close view

Tying up to one of the tour boats in a lock chamber
On the Pacific Ocean end of the canal, a view of the colorful Biodiversity Museum on the nearby Amador Causeway, the old city (Casco Viejo) farther away on the lower right, and the skyscrapers of modern Panama City in the distance
Finally in the Pacific, we got to sail, and Chris was a happy man!

Sunday, March 19, 2017

Transiting The Panama Canal Is Stressless (When You’re Not On Your Own Boat!): Part 1

Anne and Chris transiting the Panama Canal!

One thing I was dying to do here in Panama was to transit the canal. It’s had a hold on me since reading of the incredibly deadly and laborious digging of the canal in David McCullough’s terrific book The Path Between the Seas: The Creation of the Panama Canal 1870-1914 years ago. The Atlantic side of the canal is at Colón, Panama, so when we left Bocas del Toro, we headed to Shelter Bay Marina, a welcoming spot at the mouth of the canal where a willing crew can pick up a transiting boat. We checked the board and the online schedule, but the way we got our transit was much easier – on the morning VHF net. Steve and Rose on Emerald Sea were looking for a couple of line handlers, and we piped up quick enough to get the spots. We went over to Emerald Sea the day before the transit to meet the captain and crew, and early the morning of the transit to get the rundown on gear and procedures (lines, plastic bag-wrapped tires for use as bumpers, what to do when the lines are thrown aboard, etc.). The transit takes a yacht two days, since they don’t run at night like the ships do. We picked up our advisor, Moses, while anchored at The Flats off of Colón, and headed into the Gatún locks in the late afternoon. Moses was a great guy – easy to get along with, and full of information on local and canal history, transit stats, and everything Panama. We had to wait while some other ships exited, including two cruise ships, the huge Holland America Line’s Amsterdam and the much more intimate National Geographic ship Sea Lion. Four line handlers are required on  a transiting boat—bow and stern, fore and aft—for holding the boat in position in the locks as the water rises or falls, tended ashore by canal line handlers. (Megayachts and ships have their lines attached to small locomotives that move them through the locks.) However, we lucked out and had it easy; we tied up to a tug that was also transiting, which required only two lines and no great skill in flinging or catching lines. The turbulence as the water filled the locks was impressive, but our big, solid tug wasn’t budging, allowing us to ooh and ahh and enjoy the experience instead of worrying if we were doing it right. There are three chambers to the Gatun locks, which raised us 26 meters to the level of Gatun Lake (created by damning the Chagres River). By this time it was dark, but Moses directed us to an anchorage by shore and said goodbye, leaving on a pilot boat. We had a late dinner and headed to bed. (to be continued…)
Moses, our canal advisor (left) and Captain Steve

Passing by the cruise ship that just exited the Gatun locks
Heading into the first chamber of the Gatun locks, Pacific-bound

The huge doors close on the Caribbean Sea...
The chamber now filled, you can see how high we are relative to the bay (Colon in the distance)