A Scooter for a Day on Providencia

Renting a scooter allowed us to reach some beautiful out-of-the-way spots

So, we’d explored sections of Providencia by foot and by bus, but craved the freedom to explore farther afield and on our own time, so we rented a scooter (moto, in the local parlance) for the day. Scooters are the vehicle of choice on Providencia. They vastly outnumber cars, trucks, or vans, their small size no deterrent to multiple passengers. We’d often see whole families – mother, father, several children – balanced precariously (to us) atop the seat and handle bars, or people carrying things like bicycles held out to the side, or large containers on their laps. Once we even saw a woman blithely steering with one hand, an infant draped over her other arm. It all seemed so effortless. It’s not. Anne opted for a helmet, putting her in the tiny minority of riders (and she eventually took it off so as not to conk Chris on the head with it every time we changed speed). We headed out down the eastern road, stopping at Pash Beach, which had been badly eroded by the winter storms. Then we got to Bahia Aguadulce (Fresh Water Bay). Very cute and quaint with many small beachside hotels and restaurants – there’s even a Mr Mac posada! Next stop was Bahia Suroeste (Southwest Bay). Here, the long, sandy beach is dotted with little rustic restaurants where we had a delicious seafood lunch. Seafood is abundant and relatively inexpensive around Providencia – not surprising, given the location – with nary a sign of the usual ubiquitous Caribbean standard, fried chicken. Aboard the moto once again, we sought out what was reputed to be the most beautiful beach on the island – Machineel. After seeking and not finding, then asking directions of several people, we finally made our way there. Just lovely! We had a cold drink (non-alcoholic because…scooter) beneath the palms before heading back to town. The scooter made getting around convenient, but it was just a bit too nerve-wracking for us, so we decided to stick to the bus and our feet.

Colorful hotels in Bahia Agua Dulce...

...and our very own Mr Mac cabanas!

Beautiful Machineel Beach

Waiting for lunch at a beachside restaurant

Seafood was de rigueur at all the restaurants in Providencia, which makes sense for an island! Even better is that it was INEXPENSIVE seafood.

A hillside view down to Southwest Beach

Scaling the Peak in Providencia

The highest point in Providencia, not quite 1,200 feet high, is a peak appropriately called the Peak. It’s part of a national park with a hike to the top, so we, of course, had to go. Bus service on the island is sparce, but it is available to the Peak. We were dropped off in Bottom House, a little settlement at the south end of the island, first thing in the morning (because it gets bloody hot here later in the day). The start of the trail is well marked, sporting a deck with seating and a great map of the route burned into a large wooden plaque. The trail was pretty evident, so off we went. There was signage along the way for various plants and animals, as well as some warnings, such as that the ants climbing on the acacia trees bite (yes, they do, as Anne found out after grabbing an acacia for support and meeting up with some of the ants). We had some friends who hiked the trail several years ago and pronounced some sections as challenging, but new, sturdy wooden bridges now span the streams and pools with shifty and difficult-to-traverse rocks. Still challenging are some of the steep portions of the trail, especially if they’re muddy. We kept passing small groups on their way down, and every single one of them said “You’re almost there,” regardless of where we were. Liars, all of them. At last most of the trail was beneath the trees, although it got pretty sunny and hot at the peak. The hike is totally worth it, with incredible views of the northern reefs, the reservoir down at Bahia Agua Dulce, and the anchorage by Santa Catalina. A beautiful place to relax and eat lunch. On the way down, we stopped at a small stream-fed pool to wash off the mud, soak our feet, and wet our shirts to cool us down. We passed another couple just starting up, and we did NOT tell them that they were almost there. We actually hiked the Peak again a couple of weeks later time with some cruising friends. It was worth a second look, and we highly recommend the trip if you get to Providencia.

...sometimes a boardwalk...

...and sometimes nearly straight up

From the Peak, beautiful views of the northern reef...

...and the anchorage and Santa Catalina

Mermaid atop a mountain

The traffic we had to maneuver through leaving bottom House

Wandering Providencia on Foot: To the West

An inviting start to a walk

A tribute to Providencia's seafaring people (the man is blowing a conch horn

Walking west out of Santa Isabel is a treat. First you stroll the colorful boardwalk that lines the waterfront and terminates in an interesting sculpture of mariner and little girl, a tribute to the seafaring populace. Beyond that are a couple of attractive churches, then the residential area of Old Town. Then…uphill. It’s a long, slow hill to traverse, punctuated by beautiful views out over the bay. There’s even a raised platform alongside the road from which you can view the anchorage and Santa Catalina. Playful artwork – a giant octopus bus stop and a painted plaque reminding everyone to “Let the sun set on a clean beach” (in both English and Spanish) – announces the first of several beaches along this shore. Almond/Allan Bay (we saw it referred to by both names) is a short walk down the hill. There’s no lack of artwork here, either. Underfoot are graphics of various sea creatures, a painted horse sign, and a seat designed as an enormous turtle. There was also a cute little beach bar, but no one was working it at the time. The beach itself was pretty non-existent; eroded by the winter surf and piled high with seagrass that floated in on the waves. We also spied a couple of great lizards on our walk back up to the road. We headed a bit farther south, but with no idea how far anything was, and more than an hour’s walk back already in the heat, we called it a day.

View to the anchorage from a roadside elevated viewing stand - how convenient!

Imaginative bus stop at Almond Bay

Lovely blue lizard

A sidewalk of sea creatures

Down to the winter beach piled with seagrass

We'd have bought cold drinks if there was someone here! He arrived as we were leaving

Wandering Providencia on Foot: To the East

Chris hoofing it along the main road east out of Santa Isabel

Providencia is not a large island. It’s likely that one could walk the main road that encircles the island just inland of the shore in a single day, but it’s too hot for that. We did, however, strike out from Santa Isabel for long walks. Heading east through town, you pass residences (along the main road, and along the small roads branching off of the main road), the police station, hospital, and the local library, up and down several hills, before breaking into the ‘burbs (ha ha, just fewer houses). We enjoyed several walks along the Maricaibo loop, one of the few paved roads on the island besides the main road. You pass several lovely rental houses as well as a couple of small boutique resorts; Deep Blue has a nice waterfront small restaurant where we stopped one morning for coffee and juice. What we really loved was a piece of land for sale, across the road from the water. It was sloped, with a flat area near the treeline for a house, and large open areas for fruit trees and terraced gardens. That’s what we decided belonged there, anyway. The road continues on to a small residential area, then meets back up with the main road. The only real hill on this route is that on the south side of town, so it’s a pretty easy walk.

Appropriately themed bus stop in front of the library, complete with sculptured books and reader

Chris imitates art outside a posada

Rental house along Maracaibo loop

Beautiful mural along the main road

Lot for sale with great potential (and beautiful flowers)